The STIHL 019T was made between 1997 and 2002. It is a 1.7-hp, 35.2-cc saw that weighs 8.8 lbs.
To put it nicely, the 019T is not amazing. It has the reputation of being one of the worst Stihl chainsaws. That’s not to say that everyone hates it or that it might not be right for you.
We’ll discuss why some people don’t like it below, but if you can find an MS 200T or even a 020T, those are better STIHL climbing saws.
STIHL 019T Chainsaw
The 019T is one of STIHL’s oldest top-handle saws, and it is slightly heavier than the newer models.
In saying that, though, it’s still light enough and easy to maneuver while pruning and limbing branches.
This is how STIHL described the saw when it was released.
Combines value and performance in a light-weight, compact chainsaw.
Designed for precision work in tight spaces, the 019T has excellent balance (center of gravity at throttle trigger) and a retractable carrying ring.
Exclusive, curved side handle allows tree trimmer to operate saw in various positions.
It was sold with a 14″ bar and could be purchased with lanyards.
The 191T replaced the 019 in 2002 – 2003. The 191T is a 45 cc, 1.9 hp saw that weighs 8.8 lbs. The two saws are often compared, but they are quite different.
The 192T entered production in 2005.
STIHL 019T reviews
One of the biggest problems with the 019T is that it’s hard to work on.
For example, if you wanted to replace the lube vent you would need to basically dismantle the entire chainsaw.
It seems like every part of the saw is quite difficult to access and do work on. Another example is that it’s hard to get the trigger handle back together again if it is ever opened up. It’s not easy with the switch and the wires.
These are the feelings the 019T evokes from those who have worked on them:
- Brett said, “Hate working on those!!! Still a good saw though regardless lol.”
- Scotty said, “Absolute nightmare to take apart and rebuild.”
- Steve said, “I hate working on that model!”
- Andrew said, “I bought one completely disassembled in a pail. Painfully rebuilt the whole thing.”
- Newt said, “They are a real pita to work on, and a so-so saw.”
- Ron said, “It’s a pain in the a$$ to work on.”
Here are some more comments, not necessarily about working on the saw:
- John said, ” Stihl’s most problematic saw.”
- Mike said, “They ARE a good saw. Buy it.”
- James said, “I don’t have one myself, but one of my mates has three and loves them, hence why he has 3.”
- Doug said, “I had one given to me. Everyone is telling me to throw it in the garbage.”
Jeff said:
I have an 019t that’s over 20yrs old.
Only problem it EVER had was kill switch.
I use it almost daily to do woodsculptures.
Nathan said:
The 019T is not one of Stihl’s better saws, but you might get lucky, some guys have got them to run good.
Another complaint is that it’s a bit heavy for an arborist saw.
At 8.8 lbs, it is heavier than other Stihl climbing saws and a lot heavier than the ECHO CS-2511T, which weighs under 6 lbs!
Specs and features
This screenshot comes from the 2002 listing on STIHL’s website.
019T specs:
- 35.2 cc (2.15 cu in)
- 1.7 hp (1.3 kW)
- 8.8 lbs (4 kgs)
- Bore – 40 mm (1.57 in)
- Stroke – 28 mm (1.10 in)
- 2500 rpm idle speed
- 12,000 rpm max revs
- Nylon mesh or felt mat air filter
As you can see in the description above, “Other features include Stihl Quickstop chain brake, ElastoStart shock-absorbing handle, and a large capacity oil and fuel tank.”
Download the Stihl 019T manual here.
Price and parts
An 019T in good condition for $100 – $150 is well worth buying.
Some people find them for $50 – $75, which is a good deal if there aren’t any major problems.
019T parts are difficult (but not impossible) to find.
Good spots to check:
An 019T might be one of the worst-performing STIHL chainsaws, but it would still beat many of the cheap chainsaw brands.
If all else fails, check out the Husky T435 or the Holzfforma G111 top handle saws.
I just purchased a 019t from market place, started at 75.00 ended up paying 65.00 for it. Was told it didn’t run, but after a quick review of the carb, I realized the needle on the high side of the carb adjustment was missing. I found one in my shop but the needle point was broken off. Put it on and it still ran, actually runs just a little rough, so if any body has a good needle for the high side, I’d be happy to pay you for it.